Harriet Hubbard Ayer (1849-1903) was an American cosmetics entrepeneur and journalist during the second half of the nineteenth century.
Prior to her death, she was the highest paid newspaper woman in the US. She wrote articles about beauty, health, and etiquette, and her essays were compiled into a popular book in 1899.
Her articles influenced women around the world and she was one of the first to have a successful career in the beauty industry.
She was a Chicago socialite and became famous for initiating one of the first cosmetic companies in the US, and for fighting to maintain her business against male competitors. She set the stage for later female cosmetic moguls.
In 1886, she launched Recamier Toilet Preparations, Inc., at East 34th Street, New York. She mananaged the company and marketed by incorporating her own name on the label and writing strategic and innovative advertising copy.
She used her family name and crest on her products. Many women were appalled at such indeiscretions, but she understood that it actually encouraged women who aspired to a higher social status to purchase her products.
Her products included creams, balms, scents, brushes and soaps which brought in over one million dollars a year. She used much of her earnings for interesting advertisements and paid endorsements by famous entertainers.
Harriet Hubbary Ayer inaugurated the beauty industry and women’s acceptance of cosmetic products that changed grooming habits forever.
She anticipated modern American consumer culture and identified women as consumers for whom shopping became a leisure activity and makeup a necessity.
The early Harriet Hubbard Ayer perfumes were housed in exquisite flacons mainly designed by Julien Viard.
These bottles featured elegant floral designs in frosted and clear glass.
These types of bottles seem to have been discontinued in favor of less expensive models around 1938. You can see from the first 1938 ad below that the style was being phased out. The second and third 1938 ads show the current perfume bottles that were being retailed that year.
The perfumes of Harriet Hubbard Ayer:
1913 Cœur de Violette
1914 Ayeristocrat
1914 Luxuria
1915 Blossoms
1916 Best Maid
1918 Incognito
1918 Mother Goose
1919 Service
1919 Wee Tot
1920 Dear Heart
1920 Mes Fleurs
1920 Prince Charming
1922 Ambré Nouveau
1922 Après Tout
1922 Brin D’Amour
1922 Darling
1922 Douces Fleurs
1922 Doux Baiser
1922 Ivresse D’Amour
1922 Je Chant
1922 Lilas
1922 L’Ondee
1922 Mes Fleurs
1922 Muguet
1922 Naïvete
1922 Panier Fleuri
1922 Papillon
1922 Pink Clover
1922 Pour Toi
1922 Violette
1923 Jasmin
1923 Narcisse
1923 Princess Charming
1923 Rose
1926 Red Rose
1930 Heliotrope
1931 Chypre
1931 Douce Fleurs
1932 Iris Blanc
1934 Cœur d’Or
1934 Lilac
1934 Violet
1934 Rosamond
1934 Tendre Poeme
1934 Sweet Miss Mary
1934 Violette Petales
1934 Red Rose
1935 Harriet Hubbard Ayer
1936 Golden Lotus
1937 Yu
1937 Pink Clover
1937 Regal Lily
1937 Heliotrope
1937 Honeysuckle
1938 Alexandre
1938 White Lilac
1939 Malgre Tout
1940 Tulip Time
1945 Golden Hour
1946 Three for One
1947 Winter Carnival
1948 Christmas Card
1948 Golden Chance
1948 Golden Note
1948 Golden Splash
1948 Pretty Package
1951 Sweet William
1951 Tuberose
1952 Exotic Custom Cologne
1952 Floral Custom Cologne
1952 Tailored Custom Cologne
1952 Woodsy Custom Cologne
1953 Et Pourtant
Sources: Perfume Passage Journal Summer 2021 and Cleopatra’s Boudoir.
See Harriet Hubbard Ayer items in our Virtual Museum.
